THE BIER MARKET, 58 The Esplanade, Toronto
Chef Michael Cipollo has a personality larger than life, an amazing sense of conviviality and a palate that pleases only those who appreciate good food. At only 40 years of age, Cipollo is corporate chef for the chain of seven Belgian inspired Bier Market brasseries that all aimed to please the nuances of its individual neighbourhoods throughout Ontario and Quebec; that means each are different in menu offerings and culinary cultural. My favourite Bier Market happens to be on The Esplanad and that’s where I found Michael.
If you’re not familiar, a brasserie (French for brewery) is a beer garden that serves food. That’s a rather simple explanation for the Bier Market that offers over 150 beers from 30 countries around the world and serves up food that is high in flavour and comfortabilitly.
Typical of a brasserie the menu includes Steak & Frites as well as six different flavours of Mussels & Frites – try the Pernod, leeks and lobster crème version for an eyes-rolling-to-the-back-of-your-head reaction! Beyond those irresistible offerings it will be difficult to decide between the 10-ounce Merchant Burger with smoky bacon and charred onion or the 6-hour Smoked Markt Back Ribs that have been massaged with a secret spice rub – yum. Both are served with the Bier Market’s in-house cut, famous slender, crunchy frites and a best-beer match.
Under chef Cipollo’s direction, everything is made in house from the 24-hour slow, braised short ribs to the demi-glas. “We don’t use roux based sauces, we don’t take short cuts. We make everything from scratch,” says a man who cares more about flavour than fancy presentations or complicated food speak.
Cipollo is a family man with three children between 8 and 14. What you may not know is they all grew up around the Bier Market with their dad and soon (the proud father beams) his middle son will compete in Master Chef Junior! Let’s all keep an eye on this event and on a new rising culinary talent!
Cipollos Italian nature is evident in the Market’s new sharing dish – the 50-ounce Tomahawk Rib Steak served on a hot cast iron plate. It’s a fork tender, bone-in certified Angus rib steak with chargrilled, roasted bone marrow for added richness. On the family-style plate are herb and garlic-roasted, sweet fingerling potatoes, tender grilled asparagus spears, veal jus for dipping, Café de Paris butter for smearing and Bier-58 sauce to pull the flavours together. Try it with the recommended strong dark ale, Quadrupel. Like a Tuscan beefsteak, it’s meant for sharing among friends. It’s palate pleasing and soul warming for the cold winters days.
It’s not Cipollos first Italian-style sharing dish. This past summer the dinner menu featured a Spatchcock Chicken. It was a beer-brined, herb seasoned, whole, flattened chicken served up seductively juicy on a bed of fine potato rosti, perfectly roasted root vegetables, Bier 58 sauce and chimi churi sauce. It all came together on a wooden carving board easily feeding 4 people who love sharing not only great food but also the company of each other.
The eclectic lunch and dinner dishes all come with recommended beer pairings that include appetizers, soups, salads, Flammekueches (flatbreads with delicious toppings) and sandwiches. They have oysters, sliders, poutine and charcuterie. They are happy to accommodate dietary requests and even happier to offer wine or cocktails (including a wide selection of beer cocktails) if you’re not feeling like a beer.
Even though there are seven Bier Market locations, none of them eat like a chain restaurant. Instead, they eat like an independent Belgian brasserie (complete with summer patio dining) where the chef puts his stamp on everything edible in a casual, welcoming atmosphere.