Katrina Markoff is all of 31 years old and when I look around at the Vosges Haut-Chocolat factory, the offices, the chocolate innovation lab and spice apothecary, I’m thinking there’s an entire story my hosts are not sharing, and I’m not alone thinking these thoughts. I’m part of a large group of journalists visiting Chicago and writing all sorts of stories from culture and adventure to shopping and eating. Of course, I’m in the chocolate eating group. We’re a small group but seriously focused on our work.
As we follow our guide like well-behaved children through the massive Vosges chocolate factory we all become more and more curious about the story behind the words. Owner Katrina Markoff, we’re told, started out making chocolates in her tiny apartment kitchen a little more than a decade ago. But from from a student apartment kitchen to this sterile white, spanking clean, 64,000 square foot, Gold LEEDS certified chocolate temple with a staff of 200, 9 chocolate boutiques and production of 150,000 pieces of chocolate a day – there’s a whole lot of story missing. “Yes, she got a small bank loan,” was the answer given by Vosges worshiper, Sophie Gatins. Cute stuff but, not computing.
Aside from Vosges efforts to keep their evolution from student to global multi-million dollar company a secret, the chocolate is divine!
We were distracted from our questions with Sicilian olive oil, green olive and white chocolate truffles – a good ploy. I bite into it and it was sweet with layers of pungent olive oil and velvety-rich cream. Who would have thought those flavours would be so amazing together? Each bite of a different flavour magically transports you to a different place in the world, the curry and coconut milk to India, the olive oil and green olive to Greece and the ginger and wasabi to far off Asia.
Sophie talks of chocolate domination with future plans for a gastro pub, elaborate chocolate tours and events, and a chocolate museum. They want to integrate the river that runs at the back of their factory into their chocolate culture with chocolate water taxis to transport chocolate lovers in style. I have visions of a river flowing with luscious milk chocolate – but that’s probably going too far.
We follow Sophie into a chocolate innovation laboratory with counters full of little gobs of soft, dark, bitter chocolate ganache. We pick them up with miniature forks. Then with more than 20 different natural flavours in powder form we play by dipping the ganache into one or many of the flavours to create something really delicious. Mostly, the flavour combinations I make are ghastly, toasted pineapple doesn’t go with Hungarian paprika and beef jerky powder does nothing for vanilla sugar. Obviously there is a bit of talent and a little magic required to make great chocolate. Hummm.
Like a wine tasting ritual, Vosges has a 5-step chocolate tasting ritual that guarantees the magic flavour experiences of chocolate. It’s more for the uneducated chocolate eater than for this group. Since we’re professional chocolate eaters, we listen attentively with nodding heads.
First, close your eyes and travel into that peaceful zen place in your psyche. Then pick up the chocolate and take a close look at the art, toppings, colour – basically, eat with your eyes while the chocolate slightly melts in your warm fingers.
Third step and probably the most important issue for maximum enjoyment – turn the chocolate upside down. This puts the toppings (flavours) on your tongue where it sits on the olfactory senses magically achieving maximum flavour pleasure. Now bite down and feel the texture(s) change as the chocolate yields to the pressure between your teeth. You’ll experience the crunch or bite that offers excitement or the thick creaminess of the ingredients that luxuriates across your palate sensuously. In between are many combinations of textures and flavours. It all becomes a mouthful of pure magic.
Now, press the chocolate to the roof of your mouth. As your mouth warms the chocolate, every inhalation floats the aromas up your olfactory senses where the real tasting takes place. Now if you have an accompanying beverage, now is the time to take a sip, close your eyes and spend time floating in your happy zen place while the flavours tickle all of your senses, reaching every part of your body. Chocolate is one of the few foods that we eat with our fingers and when traces of it melt on our fingers, it demands to be licked enhancing the sensuous quality of chocolate. The experience is as magical as you allow it to become.
There is a large sign at the entrance to the Vosges offices that reads, “At Vosges Haut-Chocolat we harness the power of storytelling to open minds, spirits and palates through esteemed chocolate, inspiring us all to interact with the world in a new and creative way.”
So who cares what story Katrina Markoff wants to spin off her amazing chocolate empire. Whatever little secrets there are – thank goodness they all worked so well! Vosges is an insanely creative and uber exciting flavour experience company that blows your mind with the darkest of sensations. It’s pure mouth magic.